Wednesday, July 3, 2019

Wednesday, July 3, The Layers of Jerusalem


WOW!  Today was an AMAZING day.  Each morning as we begin our bus ride to our first destination Uri always says “Today is going to be a great day!” And each day he is right!  Today was a day I have been looking forward to since the inception of this trip, the day I get to take my traveling family into the Old City.  There is something special about the Old City, something indescribable.  Something that every person should experience.  And today, after more than 2 years of planning, I got to take these precious people into my most favorite place in the world.  I have also been looking closely at this day because without question, this is the most physically demanding day of the entire trip.  We did a lot of walking!

But first, we made our way to the City of David (insert joke about a city named after me…).



We explored this ancient city, the core of ancient Jerusalem as we learned how the city was administered during the First Temple Period.  First, Uri took us up to a wonderful overlook to show us where we were in relation to the Temple Mount and the surrounding areas.  We could see the Mount Olive Cemetery, the oldest active Jewish cemetery in the world and the Palestinian town of Silwan, where the City of David is located.  Uri shared the complexities of this place.  There was a Palestinian town that was built on top of it.  Should we have dug this site out?  Who really has claim to the land?  These are questions we are unable to answer, except to say that the discoveries there are really incredible. 

We then made our way to some incredible archeological discoveries which illustrate how the wealthy and powerful lived in ancient Jerusalem.  We saw the oldest discovered indoor toilet in the ruins, and Uri shared with us a lot of information about King David and his story.  What I found most interesting is that David had his issues.  He was not perfect.  We often put leaders like this on a pedestal but clearly each one is a human being who makes mistakes.  The key, as Uri shared, is how they respond to the mistakes.  Do they accept responsibility for what they have done?  Accountability is an important step in teshuvah.  It was a fascinating discussion, and a reminder that our Jewish ancestors, even those included in our prayers were nothing more than human beings.  This is one thing I love about Judaism.  We are all on equal footings. 




 We then walked down, and down, and down some more, deep into the ground to explore King Hezekiah’s 2700-year-old water tunnel that brought fresh water from the Gihon Spring outside the walls of the city to the inside.  We have no idea how they made this tunnel, more than 500 meters long and sloped just so the water would gently flow into the city.  It is truly a testament to the skill and ingenuity of the builders, even so long ago.  This is a highlight of every trip to Israel.  This is when it pays to be a little shorter, as the ceilings are a little low at points during our walk in the pitch dark (they give us flashlights to use). 











After we exited the water, we walked back to the visitor’s center through another tunnel system, this time the ancient drainage channels.  It left us off at what used to be a parking lot, and is now an incredible archaeological site, where we could actually see the layers from the different time periods throughout history.  This is a truly unique Israel experience.


We then made our way through the Dung Gate into the Old City to explore the Jerusalem Archaeological Park, including the Davidson Center, Robinson’s Arch and the ruins from the top of the Temple Mount that fell 2000 years ago.






Uri shared with us how this site looked back when it was completed, with the help of Cody, who played Mount Moriah and Dave, who helped to hold up the retaining walls that supported the platform on which the Temple was constructed.  


When you see these stones up close, you are amazed at the size of each of them.  Using volunteers, Uri shared how they could move stones of this size back in ancient times.




Uri, once again, set the scene for us perfectly and challenged us to consider why this place was so important to us, and why it has been important throughout history.  He talked about the ruins that were behind him and the reason the Temple fell.  We are taught that the First Temple was destroyed because of our sins against God.  That Temple was rebuilt.  The Second Temple was destroyed because we could not get along with each other.  Sinat chinam, or baseless hatred, is what brought this Temple down.  Perhaps, as Uri suggested, what we need more of in this world is more baseless love rather than baseless hatred.  It definitely gives us all a lot to think about.



We then made our way up to the main plaza where we came face to face with the Western Wall.  


Uri, once again, set the scene for us.  Some people find meaning there because of its history.  Some because of its religious meaning.  Some go back to the 67 war when the paratroopers brought the Israeli flag back to the Temple Mount for the first time in 19 years.  And some find meaning because we are there as a community.  We all had our moment to be with the Wall.  Once again, I made my way to “my” stone and laid my hands and let the prayers flow.









For me, this is a difficult place to be, especially on a trip with my Hayley.  You can see that the photos I shared are all of the men in our group and their time at the Wall.  I tried to get everyone, and I apologize for those I missed.  But for me, the Wall is not quite as meaningful as it could be because I cannot go with Hayley and wrap my arms around her and tough the Wall together.  I yearn for the day when I can come here with Leasa, Carly and Hayley once again, and we can experience this together.



I am grateful for the many women in our group who took Hayley under their wing and made sure I could see her encounter with the Wall through their camera lens.  One day I hope to see it with my own eyes.

Hayley and I shared a long and emotional embrace following our time at the Wall.  Seems that she felt the same missing element as I did.  I cannot wait to walk the Western Wall tunnels with her tomorrow night where we can have our moment.




After our time at the Wall we made our way up the stairs to the Jewish Quarter where we enjoyed some lunch and a little shopping time.   Hayley and I have been looking for a necklace for her with her Hebrew name on it and we are having one made.  They were going to ship it to the US but the store owner, David, asked where we were staying and he is going to hand deliver it to her once it is completed.  Only in Israel!

Following lunch, Uri walked us around the Jewish Quarter of the Old City where we stopped to look at the Hurva Square, which is the center of modern-day life in the Jewish Quarter, King Hezekiah’s Broad Wall, a massive wall built to protect Jerusalem 2700 years ago, and a walk along the rooftops of the Old City where we saw the domes of the three great religious landmarks: The Church of the Holy Sepulchre (marking where Jesus is believed to have been crucified),  The Jewish Quarter’s Hurva Synagogue, and the Dome of the Rock, one of Islam’s most sacred and beautiful sites. 



Seeing the Old City from atop the rooftops shows us how small an area this is, and how so many faiths live in such close quarters to each other with relative peace.  It is also amazing to be in a place that is so important to so many faiths.  How blessed we are to be here together.

We had a little down time at the hotel before walking back to the Mamilla pedestrian arcade for dinner before our final event for the night.  Mamilla is a fantastic place!  Especially at night with the thousands of twinkle lights. 


We were so lucky to be in Israel with the Festival of Light that is going on.  We saw projections on the wall of the Old City along with some really cool light up characters.  It was packed with people enjoying the lights!  What a great reminder for us to bring our light to the world.






We then made our way to The Night Spectacular at the Tower of David Museum, where the walls of the Citadel serve as the stage for this nighttime show that is a celebration of sight and sound – that told the story of King David. 

We had a nice walk back to the hotel together and are turning in for the night, exhausted from a full day, and looking forward to what tomorrow brings.  Tomorrow, we will experience Yad Vashem, Israel’s memorial to the 6 million and museum, a heavy, difficult look at man’s cruelty to man.  Uri spoke today of sinat chinam, baseless hatred.  I can’t think of a more perfect example of this than the holocaust.  I know this will be especially emotional for Hayley, as she was too young to enter Yad Vashem when we visited Israel 4 years ago.  I will do my best to be present for her through this, and to be present for our whole group who will deal with the horrors of the Nazi final solution.  I remember how Uri made this place so meaningful with his insights last trip, and I know he will do so again.    

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